Planting Shrubs Correctly

Posted under Hedges, Landscape, Landscaping, Lawn Care Business, Suggestions for Other Work

When to Plant

In the professional landscape industry, planting occurs year-round. Container-grown and balled-and-burlapped (B&B) plants with well-developed root systems can be planted throughout the year, but additional watering will be required for success during the warmer seasons.

The very best time of year to plant, in terms of root growth and plant establishment, is during the fall. Unlike the tops of ornamental plants that go dormant and cease growth for the winter, roots of ornamental plants in the Southeast continue to grow throughout the winter months. Fall planting allows the carbohydrates produced during the previous growing season to be directed to root growth since there is little demand from the top. When spring and summer arrive, a better established root system will provide the most of the necessary water and nutrients for optimum plant growth.

Planting in spring and summer often results in a competition between roots and shoots for water, nutrients and food substances. Often there are not enough roots to satisfy the demand of the shoots, and wilting may occur.

Soil Preparation

While shaping the final grade of the planting beds, remember the importance of good drainage. Poorly drained soils are a leading cause of plant problems in the landscape. Therefore, before placing the first plant in the ground it is important to take steps to assure adequate drainage.

If a site is known to be poorly-drained, create raised beds. Often beds can be elevated 8 to 12 inches above the existing grade by using native soil on site, but sometimes it is necessary to apply

additional well-drained soil. In extreme cases, you may have to install a drain tile to help carry water off the site.

In shaping the final grade, avoid leaving dips or pockets where water is likely to stand. Shape beds so that excess water will be carried off the site and away from buildings. Water also can be directed to unplanted areas. Few ornamental plants, with the exception of pond plants, can tolerate long periods of standing water. Good drainage is critical for most ornamental plants.

If you are planting around new construction, remove any debris left on the site that may cause plant growth problems. Chunks of concrete, roofing shingles, globs of tar, oil spills and sheetrock are a few of the hazards of new construction sites. These can result in long-term growth problems. Soil compaction is also a problem near new construction.

Tilling deeply and incorporating organic matter is often sufficient to loosen hard compacted soils.

Soil Test

In addition to examining the physical properties of the soil and taking corrective measures on poorly drained soils, a soil test will determine which nutrients need to be applied and whether you need to adjust the pH. A soil sample is best taken several weeks before planting so you will know how to treat the soil at planting time. However, if new soil is brought onto the site at planting time or if soil is moved around during the final grading, it is best to wait until all the soil is in place before sampling. You can adjust pH or surface-apply fertilizer at the recommended rate later, after plants are established. Soil testing is available at a nominal fee through county Extension offices.

The majority of ornamental plants prefer a soil pH from 5.8 to 6.5. Above or below this pH range, nutrient deficiencies often result. To raise the pH level of an acid soil, dolomitic lime is usually added, while the pH level of alkaline soils can be lowered with amendments like sulfur or aluminum sulfate. Adjusting soil pH without the benefit of a soil test can result in nutrition problems that are difficult to counteract and correct. Follow soil test results.

Organic Amendments

Organic amendments such as composted products are applied to soils to improve the nutrient and water-holding capacity of soils, or, in general terms, to improve soil health. Research has shown that when adding organic matter to a soil, it is best to incorporate it throughout the rooting zone as opposed to placing it in the planting hole. By incorporating an amendment uniformly in the soil, the entire rooting area becomes a uniform growing environment for roots.

On the other hand, when a planting hole alone is amended, the structure of the soil in the hole can differ significantly from that of the surrounding native soil, if an excessive amount or the wrong type is added. This can encourage the roots to stay within the confines of the hole and discourages them from entering the surrounding native soil, especially if a perfectly round planting hole is dug.

Some types of organic materials and quantities of them can also upset the water equilibrium between the surrounding native soil and the soil in the hole. Fine-textured organic matter such as peat moss, placed in the planting hole can act like a sponge in a bathtub, holding too much moisture after rain or irrigation. Coarser-textured material, such as composted pine bark, is less likely to hold excess moisture. In heavy clay soils, use a shovel or mattock to notch out the sides of the round planting hole. This will enable growing roots to more easily enter the surrounding soil.

Organic matter should comprise approximately 10 to 20 percent of the total soil volume. For example, preparing a bed 8 inches deep requires the addition of about 1 to 2 inches of organic matter such as compost, leaf mold, or composted pine bark. Drainage can be improved in clay soils by subsoiling or deep tilling prior to adding organic matter.

Composted materials immediately provide organic matter to the soil. Do not use uncomposted bark products as amendments. Freshly milled bark that has not been composted will slowly rob plants of nitrogen when used as an amendment. As microorganisms in the soil feed on bark and decompose it, they will use nitrogen in the soil. Also, the pH of the soil often drops dramatically below the desirable range when uncomposted materials are used as amendments.

Well-composted organic products have a rich, earthy smell, a crumbly appearance, and the original organic materials are no longer recognizable. For the best choices of composted material, choose either well decomposed material from your home compost pile, or purchase composted pine bark. The composted pine bark may still contain some small bark chips, but this can aid in improving the internal drainage in fine-textured clay soils. Additionally, composted pine bark may help suppress certain soil borne disease causing organisms.

How Deep to Plant

Trees and shrubs must be planted at the right depth and receive the right amount of water if they are to establish themselves and flourish. Planting too deeply and under- or over watering are among the most common and serious planting errors.

In well-drained soil, the planting hole should never be dug any deeper than the height of the root ball. This means that the soil at the bottom of the hole is left undisturbed. Setting the root ball on loosened soil will cause the tree to settle and sink too deeply into the soil. Locate the topmost layer of roots in the root ball so that it will be level with the soil surface.

In well-drained soil, the planting hole should be between two and preferably five times wider than the root ball. Roots will grow more quickly into loosened soil, thus speeding up the tree’s establishment time.

In poorly drained or compacted soil, place the plant higher than its original planting depth at about 2 to 4 inches higher than the surrounding soil. Be sure to build the soil up beside the root ball so that the sides are not exposed, and do not place additional soil on top of the root ball. This will allow oxygen to reach the roots in the upper surface of soil. It will also cause excess water to drain away from the plant rather than collecting beneath it. Do not disturb the soil under the root ball to prevent any later settling, which will move the plant roots deeper into the soil. The top of the root ball may dry out quickly in the summer on some sites, so be prepared to irrigate accordingly.

Preparing and Setting the Root Ball

Shrubs grown in plastic or other hard-sided containers can be removed from their containers and placed directly in the holes prepared for them. Cut any circling roots so they will not strangle the plant later on. If a shrub is pot-bound, use pruning shears or a serrated knife to make slices 1 to 2 inches deep going from the top of the root ball to the bottom. Make these slices in three or four places around the root ball. Pull the roots growing along the outside of the root ball away from the root ball. Research has shown that although this kind of pruning does not increase root growth after planting, slicing root balls enhances the distribution of new roots in the surrounding landscape soil. New roots grow from behind the cut ends.

Filling the Planting Hole

The soil used to fill in around the root ball of the newly planted tree or shrub is called backfill. Your best backfill will be the loosened original soil from the planting hole mixed with 10 to 20 percent compost.

Loosen and break up any clods of soil before backfilling. Clods in the backfill create detrimental air pockets around the root ball and could hinder root growth and establishment. Place the plant into the planting area or hole at the correct depth, and then backfill the bottom half of the space around the root ball. Tamp the soil lightly with your foot. If amendments are not used, do not tamp so heavily as to compact the soil. Finish filling the hole in layers with the loose, amended soil, and gently firm the soil after each layer. Construct a 3-inch-high water ring around the edge of the root ball to hold irrigation water.

Mulching

Apply 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the planted area. Do not allow mulch to touch the stem or trunk to reduce chances of stem rot. Mulching helps to eliminate weeds, retain moisture in the soil, moderate soil temperatures,

and eventually adds to soil organic matter content. It also helps decrease erosion of raised soil around plants that are planted above the soil level. Some commonly used mulches include pine needles, pine bark, hardwood bark, wood chips and partially ground leaves.

Watering

Initially the root ball will need to be watered directly because roots have not yet spread into the surrounding soil. The raised soil water ring will help concentrate the water in the root ball area. Water the plant slowly and well after mulching. It is important to note that many plants die from too little or too much water during the first few months after planting. Plants in well-drained soil often get too little water, and those in poorly drained soil get too much water.

Become familiar with the planting site, and try to maintain constant moisture (not saturation) in the root ball for the first few months after transplanting. Some sites dry out more quickly than others and will require more watering. Water rings should be removed by the end of the second growing season if they have not settled on their own. Good watering practices result in plants that establish more rapidly and thus become more quickly resistant to drought, pests and disease.

Perennial Flowering Vines, Bush Hedges, And Fern Plants

Posted under Hedges

By Pat Malcolm

Gardeners grow two types of plants basically, annuals and
perennial plants. The annual plant grows from a seed; flowering
follows and the mother plant dies after the new crop of seed has
matured. The perennial plant does not have a life span that is
limited to one year unless it is grown out of zone. For
instance, the tulip bulb is a perennial plant when grown in the
Netherlands, but in much of the United States, the tulip bulbs
decline and won’t flower again in many States, so that tulips
are planted thereafter as an annual—not to return the following
year. The environmental factors of heat and humidity limit the
planting and growing of tulip bulbs in much of the United States
as a perennial plant.

Elephant ear bulbs can be grown as a perennial plant in warmer
climates where the elephant ear bulbs grows in size each year to
form huge clumps. Elephant ear bulbs when planted in Northern
States like New York will not survive outside temperatures of
snow and ice and must be grown as an annual unless the elephant
ear bulbs are dug up and stored inside the house.

From these perennial bulb examples, it can be demonstrated how
important temperature factors are in plant survival. Other
factors of the environment are important, such as light
intensity. Yucca plants and agave plants thrive in hot, dry,
sunny conditions, and if either of these plants are grown in low
light, the decline begins that finally results in plant death.

Desert plants such as agave plants, yucca plants, and aloe
plants can survive in the dry sands of the deserts and heat,
drought, and intense sunlight that other plants could not
tolerate. The yucca, agave, and aloe plants could not survive
tropical jungle humidities and shade.

Fern plants are very adaptable to practically any environment
imaginable, from rocky heights on arctic-like mountain tops, to
the heavy shade of tropical rainforests, ferns thrive. As a
nursery plant, ferns are grown as bedding plants in sun or shade
or as delicate indoor potted fern plants such as the lacy
maidenhair fern, Adiantum peruvianium, and the foxtail fern,
Asparagus meyerii.

Groundcover perennial plants are important in controlling
erosion and in reducing soil evaporation. Some groundcover
plants form clumps and others, like ivy, form vines that can
rapidly grow to cover uphill bare spots or cover walls and
buildings. Ivy grows rampantly once established and is popular
to use in planters and hanging baskets. Iron plant, Aspidistra
lurida, grows well as a shade plant and some aspidistra forms
are covered with white dots on the waxy green leaves; others are
variegated with white stripes, Aspidistra elatior ‘Variegata.’
Palm grass, Curculigo capitulata, grows very well as a shade
plant near pools. Dwarf mondo grass, Ophiopogon japonicus nana,
is an excellent liriope-type groundcover that aggressively
crowds out weeds and grows in green or white forms for landscape
contrasts. The creeping fig vine, Ficus repens, rapidly covers
walls and can cover ground areas that are barren. Ficus repens,
fig vine, can rapidly send out leafy shoots that grow a foot per
week. Liriope groundcover perennial plants are among the most
popularly grown because they are colorful, dense, clean growing
and grow in many sizes. The most popular liriope cultivars are
Liriope muscari ‘Big Blue;’ Liriope muscari ‘Royal Purple;’
Liriope muscari ‘Super Green Giant;’ and Liriope muscari
‘Variegata.’

Flowering bush hydrangea perennials are native plants to the
United States, and many new hydrangea cultivars have been
developed in bright colors of red, blue, white, purple, and
pink. Hydrangea bushes shed their leaves during the winter, but
spring back to life in the spring, covered with flowers.

Flowering vine perennials are grown to cover fences, trellises,
and walls—some with evergreen foliage, others with flowers with
a bonus of many colors, including red, coral, blue, purple,
pink, white, and yellow. Carolina jasmine, Gelsemium
sempervirens, covers the entire vine with bright yellow flowers,
which are fragrant and fast growing. Confederate jasmine,
Trachelospemum jasminoides, flowers with yellow or white blooms,
perfumed like other sweet jasmine vine perennials. Bleeding
heart vine, Clerodendron thomsoniae, flowers bright red,
heart-shaped blooms and climbs as a vine rapidly for privacy
screens. Coral vines, Antigonon leptopus, are famous in the
South for heart-shaped leaves and fragile delicate flower
clusters of pink or white. Coral vines are known locally in
Florida as the Tallahassee vine.

The butterfly bush is sweetly scented and easy to grow as a
perennial bush or hedge. Butterflies swarm on the flowers in
summer and fall seasons that are tough and can easily become
established underneath pine trees in thickets, some are
documented to have persisted for over 40 years in one place.
Important flowering butterfly bushes flower in red, pink,
purple, white, and yellow. The important cultivars grown are
Buddleia lindeyana, Buddleia davidii ‘Bonnie,’ Buddleia davidii
‘Pink Delight,’ and Budlleia davidii ‘White Profusion.’

Ornamental grasses have secured an important place in the
landscape garden. As a bedding plant, ornamental grasses such as
black fountain grass, Egyptian papyrus, lemon grass, Pink Muhly
grass, Red fountain grass, Umbrella grass, Tricolor society
garlic, Northern sea oats, Pampas grass, Cortaderia selloana,
and Japanese silver grass have found valuable placement in
office building landscapes.

Angel trumpet plants (Datura) are very desirable to grow in
warm climates. The trumpet flowers open as fragrant one foot
blooms, drooping as the as the day progresses. Flowers of many
datura, angel trumpet plants, cover the shrub all summer and
fall in a blaze of color: red, pink, white, yellow, orange,
purple, etc. These datura (angel trumpet) plants are readily
hybridized into many attractive interesting color combinations,
known technically as ‘Brugmansia’ x ‘candida.’

About the Author: Visit TyTy Nursery to purchase the trees
mentioned in this article, or many others that you may be
looking for! www.tytyga.com

Source: www.isnare.com