Should you Over-Seed a Lawn?

Posted under Grasses, Lawn Care, Lawn Care Business, Turf grass

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One of the main disadvantages of warm-season turf grasses (such as Bermuda grass, centipede grass, St. Augustine grass, and zoysia grass) is the fact that they do indeed go dormant during the winter time thus losing their lush green summertime appearance.

Most people consider this to be a disadvantage; however, I personally think that there is no way that not having to mow your grass every week can be all bad.

Warm season turf grasses lose color and slow their growth in the fall and go into dormancy after the first frost and are brown until spring. Planting a cool-season grass in the fall, a process called over-seeding, provides a green, growing cover during the winter. The ideal over-seed will be easy to germinate, look great during the winter and die in the spring just as the base warm-season grass begins to grow. Although this ideal is almost impossible to reach, here are some tips to a great-looking over-seed and a good transition back to warm-season grass in the spring.

It is important to remember that growing an over-seeded grass during the winter is stressful on the underlying warm-season grass. The winter grass usually is planted well before our permanent grass goes dormant in the fall, depriving the underlying grass of the last month or so of its normal growing season by shading it out and competing with it for water, nutrients, and sunlight. Also, an over-seed will require much more water and fertilizer in the fall than a lawn than is going dormant.

The major problem; however, comes in the spring, when the warm-season grass is breaking dormancy and starting to grow. If an over-seed is present, it competes for light, water and nutrients with the underlying grass, and can set back the growth of the warm-season grass significantly compared to non-over-seeded lawns. For this reason, it is very difficult to achieve good results year in and year out when over-seeding zoysia grass (especially Emerald zoysia grass) or centipede grass lawns. These grasses are relatively slow growing and do not recover from being over-seeded nearly as well as Bermuda grass. It is recommended that homeowners think twice before over-seeding zoysia grass or centipede grass lawns, especially on an ongoing basis. I also tend to think that zoysia grass has a very appealing dormant winter color. Bermuda grass, with its aggressive growth, best tolerates chronic over-seeding.

The overwhelming majority of lawns are over-seeded using either annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum) or perennial ryegrass (L. perenne). The choice of which ryegrass to use often comes down to a decision of cost versus appearance. Annual ryegrass is cheaper, but perennial ryegrass has a darker green color and a finer texture. Perennial

Rye grass also has better heat tolerance than annual ryegrass. This is actually a major disadvantage in the spring, when perennial ryegrass competes with the underlying warm-season for nutrients, light and water longer than annual ryegrass does.

Perennial ryegrasses for over-seeding are typically sold as blends of several varieties, with seed companies and distributors concocting their own blends, often changing the composition from year to year. There are also several varieties of annual ryegrass from which to choose.

A newer class of ryegrass intended for over-seeding is called intermediate ryegrass. Intermediate ryegrasses are the result of crosses between annual ryegrass and perennial ryegrass, and they seek to combine the looks of perennial ryegrass with the low heat tolerance of annual ryegrass. So far, results have been mixed.

Ryegrass is susceptible to seedling rots caused by fungi. Buying seed treated with a fungicide will help greatly to reduce this problem. Fungicide-treated seed is worth the investment.

The best time to plant winter ryegrass varies from north to south. In the Tennessee Valley, ryegrass is typically planted sometime in mid - September. In central Alabama, the last half of September or the first part of October usually is a good time to establish a ryegrass over-seed. Along the Gulf Coast, middle to late October are typical. The exact date depends on the weather. Waiting until the daytime temperatures are consistently below 85 degrees F will improve ryegrass germination.

If you have chosen to over-seed your lawn, here are a couple suggestions to help make your over-seeding more successful. Mow the lawn as closely as possible without scalping. A shorter cut than usual will make it easier for the ryegrass seeds to fall down to the soil. If the lawn has a heavy amount of thatch, it is good idea to dethatch the lawn before over-seeding. Be sure to rake all debris off the lawn. Plant about 8 – 10 pounds of ryegrass (either annual or perennial) seed per 1000 square feet. Use a mechanical spreader for best results. Apply half of the seed walking in one direction, then the other half walking at right angles to the first. This will help achieve a uniform distribution of the over-seed.

Be sure to irrigate the newly planted seed lightly but frequently (twice per day) for the first 3-5 days, until the seeds have germinated. But be careful not to overwater! There is no need to flood the soil before the seeds germinate. Only enough water to keep the seeds moist is needed.

After the seeds germinate and begin to establish a root system, reduce the frequency of watering and increase the depth. Irrigate once per day for the first week after the seeds germinate, then reduce the frequency of watering to twice or three times per week. Remember that irrigation is a supplement to natural rainfall; you can reduce irrigation or even eliminate it altogether if there is enough rain. Rainfall sensors on an automatic irrigation system can cut off the irrigation when it rains and save the homeowner significant amounts of money.

Begin mowing the ryegrass as soon as it reaches 2 – 2 ½ inches in height. The grass should be maintained at about 2 inches during the winter. Be sure that the lawnmower is sharp, especially when mowing young ryegrass. A dull mower could rip the seedlings out of the ground. Mow often enough that you do not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at any one mowing.

Fertilizer may be applied to help the ryegrass maintain color. Apply fertilizer at

the rate of ½ pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet after the second mowing, and then up to monthly at the same rate ( ½ pound N per 1000 square feet) as long as the temperature is above freezing. Discontinue fertilization in February in preparation for transition back to permanent grass.

Rye grass will die when the weather becomes hot in late spring, but several management practices can encourage transition back to warm-season grass. Do not fertilize the ryegrass in early spring, as this promotes growth and competition with the warm-season grass. Once the underlying grass greens up in the spring, mow the rye grass as closely as possible without scalping the underlying grass. This opens up the ryegrass canopy and allows light to reach the warm-season grass. Once the warm-season grass begins vigorous growth, resume your normal lawn care program.

Planting Shrubs Correctly

Posted under Hedges, Landscape, Landscaping, Lawn Care Business, Suggestions for Other Work

When to Plant

In the professional landscape industry, planting occurs year-round. Container-grown and balled-and-burlapped (B&B) plants with well-developed root systems can be planted throughout the year, but additional watering will be required for success during the warmer seasons.

The very best time of year to plant, in terms of root growth and plant establishment, is during the fall. Unlike the tops of ornamental plants that go dormant and cease growth for the winter, roots of ornamental plants in the Southeast continue to grow throughout the winter months. Fall planting allows the carbohydrates produced during the previous growing season to be directed to root growth since there is little demand from the top. When spring and summer arrive, a better established root system will provide the most of the necessary water and nutrients for optimum plant growth.

Planting in spring and summer often results in a competition between roots and shoots for water, nutrients and food substances. Often there are not enough roots to satisfy the demand of the shoots, and wilting may occur.

Soil Preparation

While shaping the final grade of the planting beds, remember the importance of good drainage. Poorly drained soils are a leading cause of plant problems in the landscape. Therefore, before placing the first plant in the ground it is important to take steps to assure adequate drainage.

If a site is known to be poorly-drained, create raised beds. Often beds can be elevated 8 to 12 inches above the existing grade by using native soil on site, but sometimes it is necessary to apply

additional well-drained soil. In extreme cases, you may have to install a drain tile to help carry water off the site.

In shaping the final grade, avoid leaving dips or pockets where water is likely to stand. Shape beds so that excess water will be carried off the site and away from buildings. Water also can be directed to unplanted areas. Few ornamental plants, with the exception of pond plants, can tolerate long periods of standing water. Good drainage is critical for most ornamental plants.

If you are planting around new construction, remove any debris left on the site that may cause plant growth problems. Chunks of concrete, roofing shingles, globs of tar, oil spills and sheetrock are a few of the hazards of new construction sites. These can result in long-term growth problems. Soil compaction is also a problem near new construction.

Tilling deeply and incorporating organic matter is often sufficient to loosen hard compacted soils.

Soil Test

In addition to examining the physical properties of the soil and taking corrective measures on poorly drained soils, a soil test will determine which nutrients need to be applied and whether you need to adjust the pH. A soil sample is best taken several weeks before planting so you will know how to treat the soil at planting time. However, if new soil is brought onto the site at planting time or if soil is moved around during the final grading, it is best to wait until all the soil is in place before sampling. You can adjust pH or surface-apply fertilizer at the recommended rate later, after plants are established. Soil testing is available at a nominal fee through county Extension offices.

The majority of ornamental plants prefer a soil pH from 5.8 to 6.5. Above or below this pH range, nutrient deficiencies often result. To raise the pH level of an acid soil, dolomitic lime is usually added, while the pH level of alkaline soils can be lowered with amendments like sulfur or aluminum sulfate. Adjusting soil pH without the benefit of a soil test can result in nutrition problems that are difficult to counteract and correct. Follow soil test results.

Organic Amendments

Organic amendments such as composted products are applied to soils to improve the nutrient and water-holding capacity of soils, or, in general terms, to improve soil health. Research has shown that when adding organic matter to a soil, it is best to incorporate it throughout the rooting zone as opposed to placing it in the planting hole. By incorporating an amendment uniformly in the soil, the entire rooting area becomes a uniform growing environment for roots.

On the other hand, when a planting hole alone is amended, the structure of the soil in the hole can differ significantly from that of the surrounding native soil, if an excessive amount or the wrong type is added. This can encourage the roots to stay within the confines of the hole and discourages them from entering the surrounding native soil, especially if a perfectly round planting hole is dug.

Some types of organic materials and quantities of them can also upset the water equilibrium between the surrounding native soil and the soil in the hole. Fine-textured organic matter such as peat moss, placed in the planting hole can act like a sponge in a bathtub, holding too much moisture after rain or irrigation. Coarser-textured material, such as composted pine bark, is less likely to hold excess moisture. In heavy clay soils, use a shovel or mattock to notch out the sides of the round planting hole. This will enable growing roots to more easily enter the surrounding soil.

Organic matter should comprise approximately 10 to 20 percent of the total soil volume. For example, preparing a bed 8 inches deep requires the addition of about 1 to 2 inches of organic matter such as compost, leaf mold, or composted pine bark. Drainage can be improved in clay soils by subsoiling or deep tilling prior to adding organic matter.

Composted materials immediately provide organic matter to the soil. Do not use uncomposted bark products as amendments. Freshly milled bark that has not been composted will slowly rob plants of nitrogen when used as an amendment. As microorganisms in the soil feed on bark and decompose it, they will use nitrogen in the soil. Also, the pH of the soil often drops dramatically below the desirable range when uncomposted materials are used as amendments.

Well-composted organic products have a rich, earthy smell, a crumbly appearance, and the original organic materials are no longer recognizable. For the best choices of composted material, choose either well decomposed material from your home compost pile, or purchase composted pine bark. The composted pine bark may still contain some small bark chips, but this can aid in improving the internal drainage in fine-textured clay soils. Additionally, composted pine bark may help suppress certain soil borne disease causing organisms.

How Deep to Plant

Trees and shrubs must be planted at the right depth and receive the right amount of water if they are to establish themselves and flourish. Planting too deeply and under- or over watering are among the most common and serious planting errors.

In well-drained soil, the planting hole should never be dug any deeper than the height of the root ball. This means that the soil at the bottom of the hole is left undisturbed. Setting the root ball on loosened soil will cause the tree to settle and sink too deeply into the soil. Locate the topmost layer of roots in the root ball so that it will be level with the soil surface.

In well-drained soil, the planting hole should be between two and preferably five times wider than the root ball. Roots will grow more quickly into loosened soil, thus speeding up the tree’s establishment time.

In poorly drained or compacted soil, place the plant higher than its original planting depth at about 2 to 4 inches higher than the surrounding soil. Be sure to build the soil up beside the root ball so that the sides are not exposed, and do not place additional soil on top of the root ball. This will allow oxygen to reach the roots in the upper surface of soil. It will also cause excess water to drain away from the plant rather than collecting beneath it. Do not disturb the soil under the root ball to prevent any later settling, which will move the plant roots deeper into the soil. The top of the root ball may dry out quickly in the summer on some sites, so be prepared to irrigate accordingly.

Preparing and Setting the Root Ball

Shrubs grown in plastic or other hard-sided containers can be removed from their containers and placed directly in the holes prepared for them. Cut any circling roots so they will not strangle the plant later on. If a shrub is pot-bound, use pruning shears or a serrated knife to make slices 1 to 2 inches deep going from the top of the root ball to the bottom. Make these slices in three or four places around the root ball. Pull the roots growing along the outside of the root ball away from the root ball. Research has shown that although this kind of pruning does not increase root growth after planting, slicing root balls enhances the distribution of new roots in the surrounding landscape soil. New roots grow from behind the cut ends.

Filling the Planting Hole

The soil used to fill in around the root ball of the newly planted tree or shrub is called backfill. Your best backfill will be the loosened original soil from the planting hole mixed with 10 to 20 percent compost.

Loosen and break up any clods of soil before backfilling. Clods in the backfill create detrimental air pockets around the root ball and could hinder root growth and establishment. Place the plant into the planting area or hole at the correct depth, and then backfill the bottom half of the space around the root ball. Tamp the soil lightly with your foot. If amendments are not used, do not tamp so heavily as to compact the soil. Finish filling the hole in layers with the loose, amended soil, and gently firm the soil after each layer. Construct a 3-inch-high water ring around the edge of the root ball to hold irrigation water.

Mulching

Apply 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the planted area. Do not allow mulch to touch the stem or trunk to reduce chances of stem rot. Mulching helps to eliminate weeds, retain moisture in the soil, moderate soil temperatures,

and eventually adds to soil organic matter content. It also helps decrease erosion of raised soil around plants that are planted above the soil level. Some commonly used mulches include pine needles, pine bark, hardwood bark, wood chips and partially ground leaves.

Watering

Initially the root ball will need to be watered directly because roots have not yet spread into the surrounding soil. The raised soil water ring will help concentrate the water in the root ball area. Water the plant slowly and well after mulching. It is important to note that many plants die from too little or too much water during the first few months after planting. Plants in well-drained soil often get too little water, and those in poorly drained soil get too much water.

Become familiar with the planting site, and try to maintain constant moisture (not saturation) in the root ball for the first few months after transplanting. Some sites dry out more quickly than others and will require more watering. Water rings should be removed by the end of the second growing season if they have not settled on their own. Good watering practices result in plants that establish more rapidly and thus become more quickly resistant to drought, pests and disease.